On our Way to Turkey - October 10-11

So we ran off to Turkey for two weeks on a Rick Steves tour - Turkey In 13 Days. This was my third Rick Steves tour, having done Rome In 7 Days in 2002 and Barcelona In 7 Days in 2004 with my Mom. This was Sally's first Rick Steves tour. And it was the first time either of us had been to Turkey.

I've been planning, to one degree or another, a trip to Turkey since I met Edna on the Barcelona tour. Edna, then 70, did the Barcelona tour on her own, taking notes in pencil on her spiral steno pad and snapping photos with her chunky Minolta (I snapped pics on my chunky Nikon). And she told dozens of stories of her lifetime of traveling with her husband. She and her family did the Turkey tour and I was intrigued from the get-go.

In the the most recent issue of my newsletter, bodanzarama, I asked readers if any of the following are familiar?

"The Byzantine, Roman, and Ottoman Empires, Constantinople, Mount Ararat, Antioch, the Hittites, Ephesus, the Fertile Crescent, First Council of Nicaea, the Tigris and Euphrates rivers, the Dardanelles, Thrace, the Balkan Peninsula, and how about Troy? All took place in, flourished and fell in, still stand and still flow in, etc. - Turkey. 

The historical and cultural significance of this crossroads between East and West is immeasurable."

Indeed. Turkey holds such an incredible history that I cannot even scratch the surface in the following pages. But I hope to give you a glimpse of the people we met and the places we visited. I encourage you to go to Turkey. Follow the Rick Steves route and you won't go wrong.

Enjoy the following pages. Take your time, hang out, visit some today, some tomorrow, whenever you like. Come back often.

Let's begin with a map of our route (picture from the Rick Steves web site). The tour began in Istanbul where we stayed two nights. Sally and I arrived early the previous morning. Our tour time in Istanbul included, but was not limited to the Blue Mosque, Roman Hippodrome and cistern, the Byzantine Hagia Sophia Church, mosaic-covered Chora Church, the Turkish and Islamic Arts Museum, the Grand Bazaar, Ottoman Topkapı Palace and Harem, Egyptian Spice Market, and a scenic cruise up the Bosphorus Strait.

At the end of the second night we boarded a sleeper train for Ankara, Turkey's capital. In Ankara we toured the Anatolian Civilizations Museum and Atatürk's Mausoleum. We also had our first taste of pide, an elongated pizza-like bread topped in any number of ways.

Next we headed to the Cappadocia region where home base was the village of Müstafapaşa. While in this area we took a hot air balloon ride, saw the Byzantine frescoes painted in the cave churches of the Göreme Valley, danced to live music, ate gözleme, had lunch in the home of a local villager, and visited a local farmers market.

We also saw a carpet-weaving demonstration and a pottery demonstration before we visited the underground city of Kaymaklı. Next it was on to Güzelyurt where we stayed in a Greek Orthodox monastery. While in Güzelyurt we met with the local mosque's Imam for a revealing Q & A session I wish all Americans could have heard.

Next it was on to Konya where we toured the museum dedicated to Mevlana Rumi, spiritual father of the Whirling Dervishes. We had a bit of a misfortune at this museum - Sally slipped on the marble floor of the entrance way and the result was a hairline fracture in her distal radius. Surrounded by medical professionals (three retired MD's and three nurses, including Sally), she was in good hands - no pun intended. She was a trooper and endured a good deal of pain and mechanical awkwardness for the remainder of the trip.

We carried on to the coastal city of Antalya where we had our own private boat to cruise the Mediterranean.On Day 10 we toured Pamukkale, once the ancient city of Hierapolis. In addition to the fascinating necropolis, Pamukkale boasts hot springs and travertine terraces of carbonate minerals. Over the course of the next two days we visited the ancient sites of Aphrodisias and Ephesus, outside the seaside resort town of Kuşadası. Once the tour was a wrap, we hopped a quick flight from Izmir to Istanbul for one last night before beginning our day of travel back to Seattle.

Whew! That's the trip in a really tiny nutshell. If you are still interested, keep reading. Loads of pictures and plenty of information.

All journeys begin with that first step. Our first step was making sure we were awake and alert enough to catch our 3:45 am shuttle. The shuttle picked us up in front of our house and whisked us to the airport to catch leg one to JFK Airport. On the Delta flight we each watched our personal TV screen stuck into the back of the seat in front of us. Sally lost herself in America's Next Top Model and I channel surfed from The Food Network, The Discovery Channel, and the in-flight, real-time map.
And we're off! Just a few hours later we flew over my home turf, Cleveland. See the city of Euclid? I was born in Euclid General Hospital (which now goes by the much more specific name of Euclid Hospital).This is what you look like when you have been up too long.
It doesn't look big in this shot, but this is The Big Apple.
We jump to the first colors of dawn, somewhere over Europe.
This is your brain on travel.
Finally, a day later, we cruise over the Black Sea into Istanbul.
First thing you do after you get your bags, get some cash. Not sure why the machine swapped my middle and first names. I don't care what you call me, just give me the cash.
In Turkey one spends the Turkish Lira. One lira, minted only in a coin, is comprised of 100 kuruş (koo-ROOSH). Kuruş coins come in denominations of 5, 10, 25, and 50. I believe there is a 1 kuruş coin but I never saw it. While we were in Turkey, the exchange rate was about 1.5, like in Canada, so it was easy to figure out on the fly what we paid for stuff.
This is the nazar, the symbol to ward off the evil eye. It's everywhere in the form of images, glasswear, paitings, jewelry, and little beads and amulets - nazar boncuğu (nah-zar BON-jouk). Most often it's hanging above the doorway to a house or shop or even in the airport. It hangs off the mirrors in taxis, it dangles off bracelets worn by tourists, and might even grace the tail wing of an airplane. Turks are serious about the nazar boncuğu. Just about every culture has an evil eye tradition and Turkey's is alive and well and living everywhere.

There is a great Turkish series I've watched on YouTube called Ellerin Türküsü (this is not a link - there is a web site with the address www.EllerinTürküsü.com but Google warns that "This site may harm your computer." So why chance it?) The show covers traditional artisan hand crafts. No, I don't speak Turkish but I like watching the show for the footage of the traditional ways of life.

Ellerin Türküsü has an episode all about the nazar boncuğu. The glass beads are still made in a centuries old traditional way. The artists sit around a small oven, manipulating long medal rods to shape a tiny piece of molten glass into a bead. Again, it's in Turkish but watch some of it just to see these guys work. You don't need to know what anyone is saying to appreciate the craftsmanship and skill that goes into making these glass beads.
A driver from Hotel Sultan Hill was to pick us up and he did. I love when things are easy when you are on the other side of the world. As soon as you leave the baggage area you are confronted with a wall of drivers, each holding a sign bearing the name of his customer. We hit the ATM first and then wandered back over to the line-up. I noticed a sign with Sultan Hill on it, glanced at the dude's clip board and saw my name. That was easy. We waited about 15 minutes before we actually hit the road. The driver was really friendly and taught us some basic Turkish on the ride to the hotel.
We checked in at Hotel Sultan Hill, which is very small but complete with all the normal hotel comforts. It's located on a wnding brick road behind the Blue Mosque. The young guy behind the desk told us we could still grab breakfast. Cool, considering we hadn't stayed overnight yet. So we got two breakfasts for a one night stay. A typical Turkish breakfast in a hotel consists of several cheeses, fresh and packaged like Laughing Cow triangles; a selection of olives; a selection of jams, which the Turks love and make homemade; hard-boiled eggs; Çokokrem, the Turkish version of Nutella (we'd find another brand of this but I can't recall the name); bread and lots of it; some sliced lunchmeats; and Nescafé. Yes, Nescafé. It's everywhere except at Starbucks. But we didn't drink any Starbucks coffee so we can't say for sure Starbucks isn't topping Nescafé with foam and touting it as a latte. However, in the morning you appreciate that Nescafé is warm, toasty, and slightly nutty. It had its advantages.

The hippies brought Nescafé through these parts during the 60's and it stayed. For a fabulous book about the "Hippie Trail" running from Europe to India (and beyond) read Magic Bus: On the Hippie Trail from Istanbul to India by Rory MacLean. It's much more than a tale about hippies. It's full of the history, politics and philosophy of Turkey and the Middle East and how a whole generation embraced it, explored it, and changed it forever. I read this during the trip and didn't realize how perfect a fit it would be.

The other book I read while on the trip is Three Cups of Tea: One Man's Mission to Promote Peace...One School at a Time by Greg Mortenson and David Oliver Relin. From the Three Cups of Tea web site:

"Greg Mortenson, and journalist David Oliver Relin, recount the journey that led Mortenson from a failed 1993 attempt to climb Pakistan’s K2, the world’s second highest mountain, to successfully establish schools in some of the most remote regions of Afghanistan and Pakistan. By replacing guns with pencils, rhetoric with reading, Mortenson combines his unique background with his intimate knowledge of the third-world to promote peace with books, not bombs, and successfully bring education and hope to remote communities in central Asia."

An unforgettable book. An inspiring story. Again, pertinent to where we were traveling in the sense that two very different cultures came together to reach a better understanding of one another. Greg Mortenson, an American, brought/brings education to girls in places where it might not be tolerated. And we, American women, learned a lot about a very different culture and left with a much better understanding of Turkey, Islam, priorities we didn't set and which were not set with us in mind, divisions of labor, and on and on.

Mark Twain traveled a great deal and wrote about his travels with wit and humility and perhaps the keenest eye for observing the lot of us. He hit the nail on the head when he said, "Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness." Amen! When you travel you learn and education is key to understanding something outside your comfort zone. You do not gain that level of knowledge or understanding from books or magazines, from the Internet and certainly not from television.
Breakfast in the Hotel Sultan Hill courtyard.
Our view of the Blue Mosque from the roof of the hotel. The Blue Mosque is the common name for the Sultan Ahmed Mosque (Sultanahmet Camii). There are blue tiles on the inside but you can't really see them because they are pretty high up. No matter the name, it's an impressive structure. Because of our proximity to the speakers on the minarets, the call to prayer, heard five times a day, was loud. The first time we heard it we were in the hotel room, kinda vegetating after the full day of travel, wondering if we would get a second wind and go explore. Suddenly this voice, this announcement, this amplification of obligation was right in the room. We just stared at each other then smiled. We were not in Kansas anymore.The call to prayer, or adhān, is recited five times a day by the muezzin.
The Egyptian Obelisk, brought to what was then Constantinople by Emperor Theodosius I in AD 390, stands in the Hippodrome of Constantinople, now the Sultanahmet Meydam (Sultan Ahmet Square). This monument was originally erected in 1490 BC at the Temple of Karnak in Luxor during the reign of Tuthmosis III. Apparently,Theodosius had the obelisk cut into three pieces in order to transport the thing to Turkey but all we have now is the "top" 65 feet. Click on any photo to enlarge.
This pedestal dates from the time of the obelisk's re-erection in Constantinople. Above we see Theodosius and his court. Below we see the transport of the obelisk. That damage you see is like a big core sample drilled out of the stone. It runs up into the panel depicting another scene of the Emperor and his court on the other side.
The Kaiser Wilhelm Fountain was built to mark the Kaiser's visit to Istanbul in 1898. The fountain was built by the German government in 1900.

Street vendors are all over the city hawking roasted corn and chestnuts, ice cream, and simit, a baked ring of dough, like a soft pretzel or bagel, which is covered in sesame seeds.
Cats are all over Istanbul, all over the parts of Turkey where we traveled. Dogs, too, but not as many. All are feral. For the most part, all are fed by the residents of the city or village. We saw a few dogs as "pets" in the villages but they were working pets, outside pets. Our guide, Mine (MEE-nay), explained that Turks don't want the animals in their houses but they have soft hearts when it comes to feeding them. However, this guy is clearly a pet owner and a dog lover. This is not a working animal.The first of many glasses of tea, called çai (pronounced chai, like the Indian tea most of us are familiar with), we drank in Turkey.
We stopped at small restaurant a couple blocks from the hotel and sat at the sidewalk tables for our first dinner in Istanbul. Yummy. We have a bean salad in the foreground and a veggie salad in the background.
We've got a large piece of lavas (la-VASH) and a meat and eggplant kebap to share. Very tasty.
The sun cast a golden light on the Blue Mosque as we walked back to the Hotel from dinner.
The sun sets on our first night in Istanbul. Back atop the Sultan Hill rooftop, we watched the boats on the Sea of Marmara wait their turn to head through the Bosphorous Strait.
Keep moving on to The Tour Officially Begins: Day 1 - Istanbul.

Day 3 - Istanbul and Night Train to Ankara - October 14

Today we were up, fed and watered, with our bags on the bus by 8:45 am. During breakfast I grabbed this shot of the sun streaming through the clouds over the Bosphorous. Today was a full day. We traipsed all over Istanbul again, then headed to the other side of town by bus, then back to the old part of Istanbul to the Spice Bazaar, then over to the Kadıköy neighborhood for dinner, then back on the bus to Haydarpaşa Railway Station to catch the overnight train to Ankara. Always more cats! I could not resist them.The Four Seasons Hotel was minding its own business, expanding it's reign, when they hit a snag. Wouldn't you know it, they ran into Byzantine Emperor Constantine's legendary palace, Palatium Magnum. I hate when that happens. It might not look like much (no, the modern bridge is not part of the palace), but when Constantine moved the Roman capital here in 330, he had big plans for a big palace. Indeed, from 331-1081 the palace was the main residence of the Byzantine Emperors.

All sorts of good stuff is being excavated here: mosaics, niches, sewer pipes, frescoes, even skeletons in what appear to be burials. I wish we could have poked around in there. But we were on our way to another palace, Topkapı Palace (TOP-cop-uh - no dot atop that "ı" so it's an "uh" sound). Topkapı Palace was the residence of the Ottoman Sultans from 1465 to 1856. By the time Sultan Mehmet II captured Constantinople in 1453, the Palatium Magnum was barely there. What's a Sultan to do? They set up shop in a palace that is now Istanbul University. But by 1459, Mehmet II had ordered the construction of Topkapı.Details, details, and more details. Ottomans were not plain. Some amazing tile work is seen throughout the buildings. Of course, the highly stylized calligraphic art is everywhere. To the left, the Fountain of Suleiman I at the entrance to the Audience Chamber. Click on any photo to enlarge.



Royal throne joke too obvious here?

The other throne of the Sultan in the Imperial Hall.Iznik tile is everywhere in Istanbul. It's an Ottoman thing. But these tiles were being made long before the Ottoman's showed up. These beautiful tiles are made in Iznik, Turkey, formerly Nicea. Sound familiar? Sure, the First (and Second) Council of Nicea, early Christians of several stripes gathered in 325 to set some ground rules on how they would all behave and on what days they would celebrate this and that, etc. They had a lively debate over whether Jesus is the literal or figurative son of God (final vote - literal). They also decided when to celebrate Easter. The Council did not, however, decree that Easter should always be celebrated on a Sunday. Nor did the Council decree that it should not coincide with Passover. These details of these two holidays as we know them today were hammered out much later.

Like I said, details everywhere. Eye candy for the visually stimulated.Love the brilliant blue along with the colorful stained glass.A fountain for ablutions is never too far.This green tile caught my eye. This whole room (this shot and the two above it) was full of natural light. Good thing, too, because it's the circumcision room. Not the time or the place for second guesses.
So if I had a favorite street stall in Istanbul it would be this place. Found really yummy chocolate which I bought 2 and 3 at a time to bring home for souvenirs. And Sally could get the Kinder she loves.

Making our way through taxi-land as we head for the Beyoğlu district.
Pedestrians only on the İstiklal Caddesi (Independence Avenue).Entering the Galatasaray Fish Market or Balik Pazari area. It's chock full of vendors and restaurants. We had some calamari and beer for lunch. The official beer of Turkey seems to be Efes (Turkish for Ephesus). It's the only beer we saw advertised anywhere until we got to the Mediterranean coast. It's a light and tasty pilsner and really hit the spot. Can't really tell from the picture but the figs in the foreground are about the size of a tennis ball.Truckin' on over to the Spice Bazaar (Mısır Çarşısı). Also called the Egyptian Bazaar, this is the center of Istanbul's spice trade. Actually, the market is within the compound of the New Mosque (Yeni Cami - c is pronounced like the j in jelly so the word for mosque pretty much sounds like jammy), whose construction was completed in 1663. The New Mosque is the imposing structure in the background of the photo.Colorful but very crowded.OK, Turkish Delight (lokum). Basically, it's just sugar, starch, rosewater and sometimes nuts. But there seems to be no end of flavors. Buy it pre-packaged or in bulk, as seen above. You can spend a little or quite a bit. If you live in Washington, you might be thinking, hey, looks like Aplets & Cotlets. Sure does. Where do you think they got the idea? Turkish Delight has been around since the 15th century.OK, I saw this in several places in the market. It's basically a nut, like walnut, wrapped in a fig. Apparently, it' an aphrodisiac. And I will resist any temptation to comment so that children of all ages might enjoy this travel blog. Moving on...Karen, hope you don't mind that I got a little footage of you doing one of your sketches. I see the Galata Tower in this one. Simit! Get yer fresh simit here!When I say the Turks drink alot of tea, I'm not exaggerating. While waiting for the boat to sail, I spotted this abandoned tea set.I'm pretty sure this is the Yeni Camii (New Mosque). Below is part of the Galata Bridge which spans the Golden Horn. Underneath the bridge are restaurants and shops.The sun sets on Istanbul. You can see Galata tower on the right and, if I had to guess, the Sultanahmet Camii (Blue Mosque) in the middle and Ayasofya on the left. Then again, those two structures aren't that far apart. Considering how far we are from the mainland in this shot, I take back my guess. I'll stick with Ayasofya on the left but I give up with the mosque in the middle. After the cruise we headed to the Kadiköy neighborhood for dinner. But we weren't hungry so we had lots of time to kill before we all got back on the bus to head to the train station. We ran into Migros, the big grocery store chain in Turkey, to buy fresh fruit to have on the train the next morning. Then we headed down this street with the blue lights, no clue where we'd go to kill all that time. Just beyond the blue lights I spotted this sign and the stairway. Up we ran to check our email.Hey, for 2 TL an hour you can't go wrong. That's cheap! Plus they served beverages so I got a hot tea. I think for both of us to catch up on emails and my tea, I spent just under 5 TL.
Still, there is only so much emailing you can do. Still more time to kill. We settled on Starbucks, though we are not fans of this place. But it was warm and we could sit down, and we could use the potty. We chose chocolate soy milk instead of coffee. And yes, the Starbucks in Istanbul looks exactly like the Starbucks in Seattle, looks exactly like the Starbucks in Barcelona and in Rome and on the moon. Starbots.We all met up at the ferry terminal to catch our bus to the train station.We arrived at Haydarpaşa Railway Station pretty tired. All day I kept thinking about getting on that train and collapsing in my bunk to sleep. I'd never been on a train let alone a sleeper train. I was pretty excited, especially when Mine told us that the refrigerator might hold treats. So I crossed my fingers that our refrigerator was a lucky one. It was! Juice, crackers, water, and a Twix-like candy, Albeni. Hey, when you are far away from home, it's the little things. There isn't much space but just enough for two people to move around each other. Sally took the top bunk, ascending and descneding the small ladder. She's a good sport. I was shooting pics from the window and this couple mugged for a shot. Came out blurry but maybe they will find this site and see their silly picture.Nothing like happy hour in the corridor at 10:30 pm. By this point, Sally and I had each reached critical mass for exhaustion but we wanted to at least give the raki a try. Raki is the Turkish version of ouzo. Similar to sambuca too but not as thick or sweet. It's an anise-flavored, distilled spirit commonly dilluted with a little water which turns it milky. In Turkish, it's referred to as aslan sütü, or lion's milk. Aslan? I wonder why C. S. Lewis chose a Turkish word for the name of the lion in The Lion, The Witch and The Wardrobe? I mean, I get the whole Christian slant to the story, the comparison of Aslan to Jesus and that the Bible referred to Jesus as a lion (the Lion of the tribe of Judah), but why a Turkish word?Mine wore this raki shirt in order to properly introduce us Yanks to her nation's unofficial official drink.

I suppose if you drank too much raki, the world might look like this. OK, a word about the bathrooms on the train. First, do not use the bathroom unless the train is moving. Very important. Cuz when you flush, the contents are basically let loose (no pun intended) from the train. If we all went potty while parked in the station, that would leave quite a mess at the terminal.

Our car had two bathrooms, one at either end. One was a regular toilet and one was a squatty-potty. Let's talk about the squatty-potty. It's like relieving yourself in the woods but you're inside. Most of the world's population know no other type of facility. Throughout our trip, we always had a choice. You might have to wait longer in line for the regular toilet, but we always had a choice.

Just how is it done? First, know your 360. Take a quick glance around to locate where you place your feet, the toilet paper, something sturdy you can use for balance maybe. Next, secure your feet on either side of the hole and squat like a baseball catcher over the hole. Gather your drawers and get them out of the line of fire. Relax your plumbing until empty. Clean yourself. Dispose of the paper, usually into the near-by trash can. Flush using the Western style flusher or pour water down the hole from the near-by bucket/ladle combo. Easy, huh? But let me give you some additional advice using Newton's Laws of Motion.

First law:

"A body persists in a state of rest or of uniform motion unless acted upon by an external force." We're taking about inertia here. And inertia will get you big time if you aren't properly balanced. If you don't have your stance secured, you might tip. If you tip, you will not stop tipping unless you are acted upon by catching yourself or, gross me out, the floor. Either way, it's pretty icky considering you are in a bathroom. Now, I have to admit that using the squatty on the train was easier than using the toilet. Once down in position, you could ride the rails along with the train almost like snow-boarding. I thought it was much more challenging to try to sit my butt down squarely on the toilet on the moving train. That higher center of gravity really threw me off balance.

Second law:

"Force equals mass times acceleration: the net force on an object is equal to the mass of the object multiplied by its acceleration." So, if you fail to really get your squat on (get down low), the force by which your deposit will hit your pants or your shoes or the foot rest, equals the mass of your deposit times how fast you are depositing it. Think about that.

Third law:

"To every action there is an equal and opposite reaction." For Newton's last law, let's get out of the bathroom and step into your comfort zone. Inside your comfort zone you do not want to use the squatty-potty. It looks hard, it looks gross, it looks unusual. Maybe, maybe, and maybe. But most of the world uses a squatty or some form of a squatty. So it couldn't be that hard, that gross, or that unusual. Try it. Try it once is all I ask. Try anything at least once. It's like travel in general. Get out there and see it, talk to it, smell it, taste it, hear it, sleep it, eat it, remember it, share it. Step outside your comfort zone and try the squatty. Oh, yeah, the third law of motion - your unwillingness to try the squatty (or any new thing) is your action and for it there is an equal and opposite reaction - the pressure on your bladder or the shrinking of your comfort zone.

We finally get to go to bed. Sally did all right. I slept about 8 minutes. I hated it. It was loud, bumpy, uncomfortable. I don't ever have to sleep on a train again. I wouldn't mind riding a train for a few hours but no more "sleeping" on trains. Some folks in the group slept like babies. A few others had nights like I did. It made the next day very long, indeed. And two mornings later was the balloon ride which meant a 5:30 am pick-up. Oy. I did, however, watch hundreds of stars and the moon and the light change as the sun rose.

Return to Main Page or go straight to Day 4 - Ankara to Cappadocia.